24th Street Spritz
['4 celery stalks, chopped', '1 cup sugar', '1/4 cup celery seeds', '1 1/2 cups gin', '1/3 cup fresh lemon juice', 'Seltzer or club soda', '8 celery heart stalks (from 2 bunches)', '8 lemon wedges', 'Cheesecloth (optional)']
Bring celery, sugar, celery seeds, and 2 cups water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Reduce heat and simmer until celery is soft and liquid is reduced by half, 30–35 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl, pressing on solids. Strain celery syrup again, if desired, through cheesecloth-lined sieve (to make liquid clearer).
DO AHEAD: Syrup can be made 2 weeks ahead. Cover and chill.
Stir gin, lemon juice, and 1 cup celery syrup in a large pitcher. Divide among glasses filled with ice and top off with seltzer. Garnish with celery stalks and lemon wedges.
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