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Chicken-Fried Ribs

['About 6 cups vegetable oil', '2 racks baby back ribs (about 1 pound each), cut into ribs', '1/3 cup all-purpose flour', '3 large eggs, lightly beaten', '1 1/2 to 1 3/4 cups panko (Japanese bread crumbs)', '1/2 cup sour cream', '2 tablespoons mayonnaise', '1 Kirby cucumber, coarsely grated', '2 tablespoons Dijon mustard', 'Equipment: a deep-fat thermometer']

Preheat oven to 200°F.
Heat 3/4 inch oil to 325°F in a deep 12-inch skillet over medium heat.
Meanwhile, season ribs with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Put flour, eggs, and panko in 3 separate shallow bowls. Dredge ribs in flour, then coat with egg, letting excess drip off, and panko.
Fry ribs in batches, turning once, until golden brown and cooked through, 7 to 8 minutes per batch. Transfer first batch to a paper-towel-lined baking sheet and keep warm in oven. (Return oil to 325°F between batches.)
Stir together sauce ingredients. Serve ribs with sauce.

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