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Chicken Liver Skewers

['3/4 pound chicken livers, separated into lobes, trimmed, and rinsed', '3/4 cup whole milk', '8 (5-inch) sturdy rosemary sprigs', '2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided', '1 tablespoon olive oil', '4 small radishes, thinly sliced (about 1/2 cup)', '1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice', 'Accompaniment: lemon wedges']

Soak livers in milk, chilled, 1 hour. Drain, then rinse and pat dry. Season with 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper.
Remove rosemary leaves from sprigs, leaving a small bunch at top of sprig. Thread livers (1 if large, 2 if smaller) onto rosemary sprigs.
Heat 1 tablespoon butter and oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat until foam subsides. Cook livers on skewers, turning once, until golden and just cooked through, 5 to 6 minutes total. Transfer to a platter. Pour off fat from skillet, then stir remaining tablespoon butter, radishes, and lemon juice into skillet. Spoon over livers.
Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano '07

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