Collard Green Gratin
['4 ounces very thinly sliced country ham or prosciutto', '1 cup coarse fresh breadcrumbs', '4 tablespoons olive oil, divided', '1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme', '1 cup finely grated Parmesan, divided', 'Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper', '2 bunches collard greens (about 1 pound), center ribs and stems removed', '1 large onion, thinly sliced', '2 garlic cloves, finely chopped', '2 tablespoons unsalted butter', '2 tablespoons all-purpose flour', '2 cups whole milk', '1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg']
Preheat oven to 325°F. Place ham on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake until crisp, 20–25 minutes; let cool and break into pieces.
Combine breadcrumbs and 2 tablespoons oil in a medium skillet; toast over medium heat, tossing occasionally, until golden brown and crisp, 10–15 minutes. Remove from heat and add thyme and 1/4 cup Parmesan; season with salt and pepper. Mix in ham and set aside.
Cook collard greens in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender and bright green, about 4 minutes. Drain, transfer to a bowl of ice water, and let cool. Drain and squeeze dry with paper towels. Coarsely chop greens and place in a large bowl.
Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring often, until softened and golden, 15–20 minutes. Transfer to bowl with greens; set aside. Reserve saucepan.
Increase oven temperature to 400°F. Melt butter in reserved saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and cook, whisking constantly, until mixture is smooth and very pale brown, about 4 minutes. Gradually whisk in milk, 1/2-cupful at a time; add nutmeg. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer, whisking often, until thickened, 5–8 minutes. Whisk in remaining 3/4 cup Parmesan. Add béchamel to collard greens mixture and mix to combine; season with salt and pepper.
Transfer collard greens mixture to a 10" cast-iron skillet or 9" pie dish and top with breadcrumb mixture; place pie dish on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until gratin is bubbling, 15–20 minutes. Let cool slightly before serving.
Ham and breadcrumb mixture can be made 1 day ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.
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