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Gianduia Gelato

['2 cups hazelnuts (8 ounces), toasted , skins rubbed off, and cooled', '3/4 cup sugar', '1/8 teaspoon salt', '4 1/2 cups whole milk', '3 tablespoons cornstarch', '4 ounces bittersweet chocolate (no more than 60% cacao), finely chopped', 'Equipment: an ice cream maker']

Pulse hazelnuts with sugar and salt in a food processor until finely ground. Transfer to a heavy medium saucepan with milk and bring just to a boil, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and let steep, covered, 20 minutes.
Strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, then return to cleaned saucepan.
Put 1/4 cup milk mixture in a small bowl and whisk in cornstarch. Return to saucepan, then boil over medium heat 2 minutes, whisking often (mixture will be thick). Remove from heat and add chocolate, stirring until melted and incorporated. Chill, stirring occasionally, until very cold, 3 to 6 hours.
Freeze mixture in ice cream maker. Transfer to an airtight container and put in freezer to firm up.

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