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Papaya-and-Cubeb-Marinated Snapper With Baked Yam Chips

['4 5–6-oz. skin-on red snapper fillets, patted dry', '¼ tsp. okra salt or kosher salt, plus more', 'Alligator pepper or freshly ground black pepper', '½ tsp. cubeb pepper or Ashanti pepper (uziza)', '½ green or medium-ripe papaya, peeled, insides discarded', '1 small bunch cilantro', '2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil', '1 small red onion, coarsely chopped', '1 garlic clove, coarsely chopped', '1 1" piece ginger, peeled, coarsely chopped (unpeeled if organic)', '¼–½ tsp. ground dried bird chiles or other hot chile powder', '1 lemon, halved', '1 lb. puna, white yams, or sweet potatoes (2–3)', '1 tsp. coconut sugar or dark brown sugar', '1½ tsp. kosher salt, divided', '3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided', 'Freshly ground black pepper', '½ tsp. chile powder', 'Drunk Apricot Shito (for serving)', 'A spice mill or mortar and pestle']

Using a sharp chef’s knife, score skin of each fish fillet in a crosshatch pattern, making cuts about ½" apart. Season fillets on both sides with salt and alligator pepper.
Toast cubeb peppers in a dry small skillet over medium-low heat, shaking occasionally, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a spice mill or mortar and pestle. Let cool and coarsely grind; set aside. Coarsely chop half of papaya into 1" pieces; set remaining half aside. Coarsely chop half of cilantro (leaves and stems); set remaining cilantro aside.
Transfer chopped papaya to a blender; add oil and blend, adding 1–2 Tbsp. water to get it going if needed, until smooth. Add chopped cilantro, onion, garlic, ginger, ground chile, ¼ tsp. salt, and reserved ground cubeb pepper. Blend mixture to a smooth paste.
Coat fillets all over with marinade, rubbing into score marks. Place fish, skin side down, in a single layer in a large baking dish. Squeeze juice from half a lemon over. Set remaining lemon half aside for serving. Cover with plastic wrap or a lid and chill at least 2 hours and up to 12 hours.
Fill a large bowl with water. Peel yams and slice in half lengthwise, then slice in half crosswise. Cut each quarter into ½"-thick slabs. (Length of slabs will depend on yam’s size, but you’re going for something that looks like steak fries.) Add yam slices to bowl as you work to prevent oxidation. When all yams are cut, swish in water to remove excess starch, then drain. Refill bowl and repeat process until water is clear, about 2 more times. Add sugar and ½ tsp. salt and stir until dissolved; add the drained chips. (Yams, like many foods that are good for you, can be quite bitter; the sugar will help counter this.) Let soak 30 minutes.
Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 450°. Drain chips and pat dry with a clean kitchen towel. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with 2 Tbsp. oil. Season with black pepper, then sprinkle with chili powder and remaining 1 tsp. salt. Toss to coat, then spread out into an even layer. Roast chips, turning halfway through, until golden brown and crisp, about 20 minutes.
Heat broiler. Scrape off excess marinade from fish and place fillets, skin side up, on another rimmed baking sheet. Broil until browned and crisp on top and cooked through, 5–7 minutes.
Using a vegetable peeler, shave reserved papaya into ribbons, pick leaves from reserved cilantro stems, and cut reserved lemon half into wedges.
Transfer fish to plates and top with papaya and cilantro. Mound yam chips next to fillets. Serve with shito and lemon wedges alongside.

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