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Simmered Greens with Cornmeal Dumplings

['1 (1-pound) piece slab bacon', '3 quarts water', '3 pound mixed greens such as collard, mustard, and turnip', '2/3 cup all-purpose flour', '1/3 cup yellow cornmeal', '2 teaspoons packed brown sugar', '1 teaspoon baking powder', '1 tablespoon unsalted butter', '1/2 cup whole milk']

Score bacon 2 or 3 times (do not cut all the way through), then simmer in water in a wide 6-quart pot, covered, 1 hour.
Discard any coarse stems from greens and coarsely chop leaves.
Add greens, 2 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper to bacon and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, 25 minutes.
Meanwhile, whisk together flour, cornmeal, brown sugar, baking powder, and 1/4 teaspoon salt, then blend in butter well with your fingertips. Stir in milk until just combined. Let dough stand 5 minutes.
With wet hands, roll rounded tablespoons of dough into balls.
Gently place dumplings on top of greens. Cook, covered and undisturbed, over low heat until greens are very tender and silky and dumplings are puffed and cooked through, about 20 minutes. Discard bacon. Season with salt and pepper.

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