Steamed Chicken with Xiao Fan's Special Sauce
['1 chicken (about 3 1/2 pounds), halved lengthwise', '2 tablespoons thin matchsticks of peeled ginger', '1 1/2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil', '4 garlic cloves, minced', '3 to 4 (2-inch) fresh hot Thai chiles, minced, including seeds', '1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro', '1/4 cup water', '1 teaspoon soy sauce', '1 teaspoon rice vinegar (not seasoned)']
Fit a large steamer rack inside a large wide pot. Add enough water to reach within 1/2 inch of bottom of rack. Bring to a boil.
Pat chicken dry and put, skin side up, in a shallow bowl (that will fit on steamer rack inside pot). Sprinkle with ginger and steam, covered, over high heat, until chicken is just cooked through, 30 to 35 minutes (replenish water if necessary).
Carefully remove bowl with chicken. Pour off juices into a glass measure and set aside 1/4 cup (reserve remainder for another use). Return chicken in bowl to pot and keep warm, covered, off heat.
Heat a wok or large heavy skillet (not nonstick) over high heat until smoking, then drizzle oil down side of wok and swirl to coat. Reduce heat to medium, then add garlic and stir-fry 15 seconds. Add chiles and stir-fry 15 seconds. Add cilantro and stir-fry 1 minute. Stir in remaining ingredients, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 cup chicken juices and simmer 1 minute. Transfer to a bowl.
Drizzle some sauce over chicken (include some solids for a spicier sauce); serve the rest on the side. Season chicken with salt.
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