Sweet, Salty, and Sour Marinade
['3 ounces palm sugar, chopped, or 6 1/2 tablespoons light brown sugar', '1/2 cup fresh lime juice', '1/2 cup fish sauce (such as nam pla or nuoc nam)', '1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro', '2 tablespoons chopped peeled fresh ginger', '4 red Thai chiles or 6 Fresno chiles, thinly sliced', '3 tablespoons minced lemongrass (from peeled bottom 4" of 2 large stalks)', 'Ingredient info: Palm sugar is available at Indian and Asian markets. Fish sauce is sold at Asian markets and better supermarkets.']
Stir palm sugar and 3 tablespoons water in a small saucepan over low heat until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat.
Combine lime juice, fish sauce, and 3 tablespoons water in a medium bowl. Whisk in 1/3 cup palm sugar syrup (reserve remaining syrup for glaze). Stir in cilantro, ginger, chiles, and lemongrass. Put pork or seafood in a glass, stainless-steel, or ceramic dish. Toss with marinade. Cover; chill for at least 3 hours or overnight.
Remove pork or seafood from marinade, pat dry, and grill.
Simmer marinade and reserved palm sugar syrup in a small saucepan until reduced to 3/4 cup. Brush glaze onto meat or fish during the last few minutes of grilling.
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