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All-Purpose Barbecue Ribs

['6–7 pounds rib racks (your choice of St. Louis-style pork spareribs, lamb spareribs, or beef short ribs)', '1 cup Fette Sau Dry Rub', 'Vinegar Sauce for serving']

Put the ribs on a rimmed baking sheet and coat all over with the dry rub, patting it onto the surface until the meat has a thin, even layer of rub (you may not need all of the rub). If you have time, let the meat rest for 1 hour, or until the rub starts to turn into a pasty coating.
Preheat a smoker to 225°F or set up a grill for smoking. Soak wood chips, if using.
Place the racks of ribs, meaty side up, in the smoker and smoke, maintaining a smoker temperature between 200°F and 225°F, replenishing the charcoal and wood chunks or chips as needed.
After about 3 hours, start checking the ribs periodically. When you can easily tear a piece of meat off the bone with your fingers (without it being fall-off-the-bone tender) and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the rib meat registers about 180°F, the ribs are ready. Total cooking time should take 5–7 hours.
After about 2 hours, start checking the ribs periodically. When you can easily tear a piece of meat off the bone with your fingers (without it being fall-off-the-bone tender) and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the rib meat registers about 150°F, the ribs are ready. Total cooking time should take 3–5 hours.
After about 3 hours, start checking the ribs periodically. When you can easily tear a piece of meat off the bone with your fingers (without it being fall-off-the-bone tender) and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the rib meat registers about 180°F, the ribs are ready. Total cooking time should take 5–6 hours.
Using tongs or a pair of heavy rubber gloves, transfer the racks to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes before cutting them into individual ribs and serving, with Vinegar Sauce on the side, if desired.

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