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Berries and Buttermilk Puddings

['1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin', '1 cup whole milk, divided', '1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise', '6 tablespoons sugar', '1 cup well-shaken buttermilk', '1/4 cup dry red wine', '1/4 cup water', '3 tablespoon sugar', '1 (3-inch) strip lemon zest', '1 (3-inch) strip orange zest', '1 Turkish or 1/2 California bay leaf', '1 cup quartered strawberries', '2 cups mixed berries', 'Equipment: 4 (6-to 8-ounce) bowls or wide glasses']

Sprinkle gelatin over 1/4 cup milk in a small bowl and let soften 1 minute.
Scrape seeds from vanilla bean into a small heavy saucepan and add pod. Add remaining 3/4 cup milk and sugar and bring just to a boil over medium heat, stirring until sugar has dissolved. Remove from heat. Add gelatin mixture to hot milk mixture, stirring until dissolved. Quick- chill in an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until cold but not thickened, about 5 minutes.
Stir in buttermilk, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a large glass measure, discarding solids. Pour into bowls and chill until set, at least 8 hours.
Bring wine, water, sugar, zests, and bay leaf to a boil in a small heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring until sugar has dissolved, then boil until reduced to about 1/3 cup, about 10 minutes.
Add strawberries and simmer 5 minutes. Discard zests and bay leaf, then purée strawberry mixture in a blender until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids). Force through clean fine-mesh sieve and discard solids.
Chill sauce, stirring occasionally, until cold, about 1 hour.
Spoon sauce over puddings and top with remaining berries.

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