Braised Veal Shanks
['8 (12- to 14-oz) meaty cross-cut veal shanks (also known as ossobuco; each about 13/4 inches thick)', '3/4 cup all-purpose flour', '3 1/2 teaspoons salt', '1 1/4 teaspoons black pepper', '6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil', '1 large onion, chopped (2 cups)', '4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped', '5 anchovy fillets, rinsed, patted dry, and finely chopped', '2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California', '1 cup dry white wine', '1 (28-oz) can whole tomatoes in juice, pulsed (including juice) in food processor until chopped', '1 cup water', '2 (4- by 1-inch) strips fresh lemon zest', '2 (4- by 1-inch) strips fresh orange zest', '1/4 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley', '1 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest', '1 teaspoon finely grated fresh orange zest', '1 large garlic clove', 'minced']
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F.
Pat shanks dry. Stir together flour, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper on a sheet of wax paper. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. While oil heats, dredge 4 shanks in flour mixture, shaking off excess. Brown shanks in oil on all sides, turning with tongs, about 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a large (17- by 12- by 2-inch) roasting pan. Add 2 tablespoons oil to skillet and repeat with remaining 4 shanks. Discard remaining flour mixture.
Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to skillet and cook onion, garlic, anchovies, bay leaves, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, 6 to 8 minutes. Add wine and boil, scraping up any brown bits, until reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, water, zest strips, and remaining teaspoon salt and bring to a boil, then pour mixture over shanks. Tightly cover pan with foil and braise in oven 1 hour. Turn shanks over, cover, and continue to braise until meat is very tender, about 1 1/2 hours more.
Remove from oven and skim fat from surface of sauce, then transfer shanks and sauce to a large platter. Discard bay leaves.
Stir together parsley, grated zests, and garlic and sprinkle over shanks.
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