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Chioggia Beets with Raspberry Mint Vinaigrette

['1 lb beets (4 to 6; preferably Chioggia*), 1 inch of stems left intact', '3 tablespoons thinly sliced scallions', '2 to 2 1/2 tablespoons raspberry vinegar', '2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, or to taste', '2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint', '1 tablespoon finely grated fresh orange zest (from 2 oranges)', '1/2 teaspoon salt', '1/2 teaspoon black pepper', '1/4 cup olive oil', 'Garnish: fresh mint sprigs']

Cover beets with water by 1 inch in a 2- to 3-quart saucepan and simmer until tender when pierced in center with a fork, about 30 minutes. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water. Let stand until cool enough to handle, then slip off and discard skins. Cut beets into 1/4-inch-thick slices.
While beets are cooking, stir together scallions, 2 tablespoons vinegar, lemon juice to taste, mint, zest, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Add oil in a slow stream, whisking until combined. Add warm beets and toss with vinaigrette and vinegar and salt to taste. Serve warm or slightly chilled.
*Sometimes called candy-cane beets, chioggias become more aggressive in flavor as they age, so search out relatively young beets, with a diameter of 1 1/2 to 2 inches.

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