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Christmas Rice Pudding

['1 1/2 cups short-grain white rice such as Arborio', '1 1/2 cups water', '1 (2-inch) piece cinnamon stick', '3/4 teaspoon salt', '1 qt whole milk', '2 tablespoons sugar', '2 tablespoons heavy cream', 'Accompaniments: warm milk; sugar (preferably turbinado); ground cinnamon']

Bring rice, water, cinnamon stick, and salt to a simmer in a 4- to 5-quart heavy pot, then reduce heat to low and gently simmer, covered, until water is absorbed, 8 to 10 minutes.
Add 2 cups milk with sugar and cream and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until rice has absorbed most of milk but is still creamy, about 10 minutes. Add 1 cup milk and simmer, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes. Stir in remaining cup milk and simmer, stirring constantly, until rice is tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
Remove from heat and cover, then let stand 15 minutes. Serve warm.

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