Crab Fat-Caramel Wings
['1/2 cup fish sauce', '1 1/2 cups sugar', '1/4 cup Thai crab or shrimp paste with bean oil', 'Peanut or vegetable oil (for frying; about 10 cups)', '1 cup all-purpose flour', '1 teaspoon baking powder', '1 1/2 cups cornstarch, divided', '1/2 cup vodka', '2 pounds chicken wings, tips removed, flats and drumettes separated', 'Kosher salt', 'Freshly ground pepper', '1/4 cup chopped salted, roasted peanuts', 'Fresh cilantro leaves with tender stems (for serving)', 'A deep-fry thermometer']
Bring fish sauce to a boil in a medium saucepan and cook until reduced almost by half (it will darken and become pungent), about 5 minutes. Stir in sugar and fit saucepan with thermometer. Cook until thermometer registers 230°F (mixture will become thick and dark). Whisk in crab paste and 1 tablespoons water until smooth. Reduce heat to low; keep warm until ready to dip wings.
Fit a large pot with clean thermometer and pour in oil to measure 2". Heat over medium-high heat until thermometer registers 350°F.
Meanwhile, whisk flour, baking powder, and 1 cup cornstarch in a medium bowl. Whisking constantly, gradually add vodka and 1 3/4 cups water, adding more water if batter is too thick (it should be slightly thinner than cream but thicker than milk).
Place remaining 1/2 cup cornstarch in a shallow dish. Season chicken with salt and pepper and dredge in cornstarch, shaking off excess.
Working in 3 batches and returning oil to 350°F between batches, coat chicken in batter, letting excess drip back into bowl, and fry until skin is golden and chicken is crisp and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack set inside a baking sheet to drain. Using tongs, add hot wings to warm caramel, turn to coat, then transfer wings to a platter. Serve wings topped with peanuts and cilantro.
Caramel sauce can be made 3 days ahead. Keep airtight at room temperature. Reheat before using.
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