Cucumber Raita with Black Mustard and Cilantro
['1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds', '1 tablespoon sunflower or other neutral oil', '1 teaspoon black or brown mustard seeds', '3 Persian cucumbers', '3 cups plain whole-milk Greek yogurt', '1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice', '1 garlic clove, finely grated', '1/3 cup finely chopped cilantro, plus sprigs for serving', 'Kosher salt', 'Kashmiri chili powder or paprika (for serving)']
Toast cumin seeds in a dry small saucepan over medium heat, shaking pan often, until fragrant, about 45 seconds. Transfer to a plate and let cool. Coarsely grind in a spice mill or coarsely chop with a chef’s knife; set aside for serving.
Heat oil and mustard seeds in a small skillet over medium until seeds begin to pop, about 1 minute. Let cool.
Grate cucumbers on the medium holes of a box grater; squeeze out excess liquid with your hands and transfer to a medium bowl. Mix in yogurt, lemon juice, garlic, and 1/3 cup cilantro; season with salt.
To serve, drizzle raita with mustard oil, sprinkle with chili powder and reserved cumin, and top with cilantro sprigs.
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