Double-Dark Chicken Noodle Soup
['1 leek', 'Stems from 1/2 bunch parsley', '6 sprigs thyme', '2 bay leaves', '1 tablespoon vegetable oil', '3 pounds chicken wings', '1 onion, unpeeled, quartered', '3 carrots, peeled', '2 celery stalks', '2 garlic cloves', '1 tablespoon tomato paste', '1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns', 'Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper', '2 1/2 pounds bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed', '8 ounces carrots, peeled, sliced 1/2" thick', '8 ounces pearl onions, peeled,', 'halved through root', '8 ounces egg noodles', 'Fresh chervil (for serving)']
Trim dark green leaves from leek; discard all but 2. Slice leek in half lengthwise; set aside. Tuck parsley, thyme, and bay leaves inside leek leaves; tie closed with kitchen twine.
Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium. Working in batches, cook wings, turning often, until browned all over, 15–20 minutes. Transfer to a plate.
Add onion, carrots, celery, garlic, and reserved leek to pot. Cook, turning occasionally, until browned, 10–12 minutes. Add tomato paste; cook, stirring, until slightly darkened, about 3 minutes. Add 1/2 cup water, scraping up browned bits. Add wings, leek bundle, peppercorns, and 12 cups water; bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer, skimming occasionally, until stock is deep amber and chicken is falling off the bone, 1 1/2–2 hours. Remove chicken and vegetables. Strain stock into a clean large heavy pot.
Bring stock to a simmer over medium-high heat; season with salt and pepper. Add thighs, cover, and simmer until cooked through, 8–10 minutes. Transfer thighs to a plate; let cool slightly. Shred meat; discard bones.
Add carrots and onions to pot; simmer until tender, about 5 minutes. Add meat. Meanwhile, cook noodles in a pot of boiling salted water until just al dente, 7–8 minutes. Drain; rinse under cold water. Add to soup. Serve topped with chervil.
Do ahead: Soup (without noodles) can be made 2 days ahead (or 2 months if frozen). Let cool; transfer to airtight containers and chill.
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