Green Curry Paste
['2 lemongrass stalks, tough outer layers removed', '8 ounces serrano chiles (12–15), seeds removed', '1 large shallot, chopped', '4 garlic cloves, peeled', '1 (3-inch) piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced', '1 (2-inch) piece turmeric, peeled, chopped, or 1 teaspoon dried turmeric', '1 kaffir lime leaf, very finely chopped (optional)', '1 teaspoon ground coriander', '1 teaspoon ground cumin', '1 teaspoon kosher salt', '1 teaspoon sugar']
Finely grate bottom third of lemongrass into a blender or food processor; discard remaining lemongrass (or save for making stock). Add chiles, shallot, garlic, ginger, turmeric, kaffir lime leaf (if using), coriander, cumin, salt, and sugar; blend or process until smooth.
Curry paste can be made 3 months ahead. Portion into small plastic bags or airtight containers and freeze.
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