Grilled Oyster Mushrooms
['2 tablespoons fresh orange juice', '1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice', '2 teaspoons red-wine vinegar', '6 tablespoons olive oil', '2 lb large oyster mushrooms, stems trimmed', '1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt (preferably Sicilian)', 'a perforated grill sheet']
Whisk together juices, vinegar, and oil in a large bowl. Toss mushrooms with vinaigrette and marinate 15 minutes. Transfer mushrooms to another bowl with tongs, reserving vinaigrette.
Prepare grill for cooking. If using a charcoal grill, open vents on bottom of grill, then light charcoal. Charcoal fire is hot when you can hold your hand 5 inches above rack for 1 to 2 seconds. If using a gas grill, preheat burners on high, covered, 10 minutes, then reduce heat to moderately high.
Grill mushrooms in 3 batches on oiled grill sheet set on grill rack, with grill covered only if using gas grill, turning frequently, until golden brown, about 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to vinaigrette as grilled, then toss with sea salt.
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