Indian Shrimp Curry
['6 to 8 fresh serrano chiles (2 ounces total)', '20 fresh curry leaves', '5 garlic cloves, finely chopped', '1 tablespoon finely chopped peeled ginger', '2 tablespoons vegetable oil', '1 teaspoon whole mustard seeds', '1 teaspoon ground coriander', '1/2 teaspoon ground cumin', '1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric', '1 medium onion, chopped', '1 pound tomatoes, chopped', '2 1/2 ounces finely grated fresh or dried unsweetened coconut (1 cup; visit gourmet.com for how to extract meat from fresh coconut)', '2 pounds large shrimp in shell, peeled and deveined', 'Accompaniment: white rice']
Quarter chiles lengthwise (seed and devein if you want less heat). Cook chiles, curry leaves, garlic, and ginger in oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat, stirring, until very fragrant and chiles are just softened, 1 to 2 minutes.
Reduce heat to medium and add spices, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring, until mustard seeds just begin to pop, 1 to 2 minutes.
Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 4 minutes.
Add tomatoes and coconut, then cook, covered, until tomatoes are softened, 4 to 6 minutes.
Add shrimp and cook, uncovered, stirring, until just cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
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