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Kashmiri Hot Sauce

['1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds', '1/4 teaspoon black or brown mustard seeds', '1 medium tomato, halved crosswise, seeds removed', '5 fresh red chiles (such as Fresno)', '2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar', '1 teaspoon Kashmiri chili powder or paprika', '1 teaspoon kosher salt', '1/2 teaspoon sugar', 'A spice mill or mortar and pestle']

Toast fennel seeds and mustard seeds in a dry small saucepan over medium heat, shaking pan often, until fragrant, about 45 seconds. Transfer to a plate and let cool. Finely grind in spice mill or with mortar and pestle. Transfer back to pan.
Pulse tomato and chiles in a food processor until finely ground. Transfer to saucepan with ground spices and mix in vinegar, chili powder, salt, and sugar. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring often; cook until chiles are soft and sauce is slightly thickened, 5–7 minutes. Let cool.
Hot sauce can be made 1 week ahead. Cover and chill.

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