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Korean-Style Short Ribs

['1/4 cup sesame seeds, toasted and cooled completely', '1 bunch scallions, trimmed and finely chopped', '6 garlic cloves, minced', '1/2 cup soy sauce', '1/4 cup packed light brown sugar', '3 tablespoons gochujang (Korean hot-pepper paste)', '1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil', '6 pounds beef short ribs or flanken', '3 cups water', '1 (2-inch) piece peeled fresh ginger, smashed', 'Accompaniment: kimchi', 'an electric coffee/spice grinder']

Grind sesame seeds to a coarse powder in grinder. Reserve 1/4 cup scallion greens, then whisk together remaining scallions, garlic, soy sauce, brown sugar, hot-pepper paste, sesame oil, and 2 tablespoons sesame-seed powder in a large bowl. Reserve remaining sesame-seed powder for serving. Add short ribs to soy sauce mixture, rubbing mixture into them. Transfer ribs to a large sealable plastic bag and seal bag, pressing out excess air. Marinate, chilled, at least 8 hours.
Transfer ribs to a wide 6- to 8-quart heavy pot and add water and ginger. Simmer, tightly covered, until ribs are very tender, about 3 hours.
Transfer ribs to a platter using tongs and keep warm, covered with foil. Skim fat from sauce and pour sauce through a sieve lined with a dampened paper towel into a bowl, then discard solids. Serve ribs with sauce in shallow bowls and sprinkle with reserved scallion greens and remaining sesame-seed powder.

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