Lobsters with Tarragon Vermouth Sauce
['6 qt water', '3 tablespoons fine sea salt', '4 (1 1/4- to 1 1/2-lb) live lobsters', '1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter', '3 tablespoons dry vermouth', '1 tablespoon tarragon white-wine vinegar', '3 large egg yolks', '1/4 teaspoon salt', '1/4 teaspoon black pepper', '1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice', '1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon']
Bring water and sea salt to a boil in an 8- to 10-quart pot. Plunge 2 lobsters headfirst into water and cook, covered, over high heat 7 minutes from time lobsters enter water, then transfer with tongs to sink to drain. Return water to a boil and cook remaining 2 lobsters in same manner.
Melt butter and cool until just warm.
Whisk together vermouth, vinegar, and yolks in a metal bowl, then set bowl over a small saucepan of boiling water and heat mixture, whisking, until warm. Add melted butter in a slow stream, whisking, then whisk in salt and pepper. Cook sauce, whisking, until thickened and registers 160°F on an instant-read thermometer, about 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat and keep bowl in saucepan. Just before serving, stir in lemon juice and tarragon.
Working from belly side, halve each lobster lengthwise with a sharp heavy knife or kitchen shears. Serve lobsters with sauce.
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