Macaroni with Cream and Cheese
['3/4 pound fresh poblano chiles (about 4)', '1/2 large white onion, cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch-wide strips (1 3/4 cups)', '1/2 teaspoon salt', '2 tablespoons unsalted butter', '1/2 fresh serrano chile, minced (1 teaspoon), including seeds', '2 large garlic cloves, minced', '1/2 teaspoon dried oregano (preferably Mexican), crumbled', '6 oounces dried cavatappi or penne', '2/3 cup crema or crème fraîche', '4 ounces queso fresco or mild feta', 'crumbled (1 cup)']
Lay poblanos on their sides on racks of gas burners, then turn flames on moderately high. Roast poblanos, turning occasionally with tongs, until skins are blistered and charred, 4 to 6 minutes. (Alternatively, broil poblanos on a broiler pan about 2 inches from heat, turning occasionally with tongs, 8 to 10 minutes.) Transfer poblanos immediately to a large bowl and cover. Let steam 10 minutes, then peel or rub off skins and discard stems, seeds, and ribs. Cut poblanos into 1/4-inch-thick strips.
Cook onion with salt in butter in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until onion is golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Add poblanos, serrano, garlic, and oregano and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove from heat.
While onion is browning, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender, 14 to 15 minutes. Reserve 1/4 cup pasta-cooking water, then drain pasta in a colander. Add pasta to chile mixture along with crema and reserved cooking water. Increase heat to high and cook, tossing, until pasta is well coated, about 1 minute. Stir in cheese.
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