Mini Churros
['About 2 quarts olive oil (not extra-virgin) or vegetable oil', '1(1-inch-wide) strip orange or lemon zest', '2 cups water', '1/4 teaspoon salt', '2 cups all-purpose flour', '1/2 cup coarse sugar crystals or granulated sugar or cinnamon sugar (1/2 cup sugar with 1 tablespoon cinnamon)', '"Warm chocolate sauce (see cooks note below)"', 'Equipment: a deep-fat thermometer; a metal or plastic churro-maker fitted with a 5/8-inch star opening']
Heat 1 3/4 inches oil to 400°F in a wide 3 1/2-to 4-quart heavy pot over high heat (oil will be just beginning to smoke). Drop in zest (oil will bubble vigorously) and fry until browned, about 1 minute. Remove with tongs.
Prepare churros while oil heats:
Line 2 trays with parchment paper.
Bring water with salt to a boil in a heavy medium saucepan, covered. Add 2 teaspoons olive oil and remove from heat. Immediately add flour and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until combined (mixture will be stiff and not very smooth). Fill churro-maker with some hot dough and wrap a kitchen towel around churro-maker canister.
Turn screw handle of churro-maker until dough emerges from star opening. Holding opening about 2 inches above a tray, turn handle to squeeze long lines of dough onto parchment. Cut lines into 3-inch pieces with kitchen shears. Repeat with remaining dough, including any scraps.
Fry churros, 10 to 12 at a time, turning occasionally, until golden but still slightly moist in center, 3 to 4 minutes per batch. Drain on paper towels. Return oil to 400°F between batches.
Roll warm churros in sugar and serve with warm chocolate sauce if desired.
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