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Molasses Sponge Candy

['1 1/2 cups sugar', '1/3 cup water', '3 tablespoons unsalted butter', '1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar', '1/2 cup mild molasses', '2 1/2 teaspoons baking soda']

Line bottom and sides of a 13- by 9-inch baking pan with foil, then butter foil.
Bring sugar, water, butter, and cream of tartar to a boil in a deep 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved, then wash down any sugar crystals with a pastry brush dipped in cold water. Boil without stirring until syrup registers 265°F (hard-ball stage) on a candy thermometer, about 10 minutes. Add molasses (don't stir) and continue to boil undisturbed until syrup registers 295°F (hard-crack stage), 4 to 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat and sift baking soda over syrup, then whisk to incorporate. (Use caution: mixture will bubble vigorously.)
Immediately pour syrup into lined baking pan and cool completely. Lift candy in foil from pan, then discard foil and break candy into pieces.

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