Pasta All'Amatriciana
['2 28-ounces cans whole peeled tomatoes', '1 medium onion, finely chopped', '4 ounces guanciale (salt-cured pork jowl), finely chopped', '4 ounces pancetta (Italian bacon), finely chopped', '1/4 cup olive oil', '1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes', '1/4 cup tomato paste', '1 cup dry white wine', '1 teaspoon sugar (optional)', 'Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper', '1 pound penne or other tube-shaped pasta', 'Finely grated Pecorino or Parmesan', 'ingredient info: Guanciale is available at specialty foods stores and online sources.']
Purée tomatoes with juices in a blender; set aside. Cook onion, guanciale, pancetta, oil, red pepper flakes, and 1/2 cup water in a large heavy pot over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until water is evaporated and fat begins to render, 8-10 minutes.
Add tomato paste and cook, stirring often, until beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring often, until reduced by half, 5-8 minutes.
Add reserved tomato purée and bring to a boil. Cover pan partially with a lid, reduce heat, and simmer until meat is tender and flavors are melded, 40-45 minutes. Add sugar, if using; season with salt and pepper.
When sauce is almost done, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente; drain pasta.
Add pasta to sauce and toss to coat. Serve topped with Pecorino.
DO AHEAD: Sauce can be made 4 days ahead. Let cool, then chill until cold. Cover and keep chilled.
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