Pear Maple Johnnycake
['1 stick unsalted butter', '2 tablespoons sugar', '4 firm-ripe Anjou pears, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cored', '1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg, divided', '1 cup all-purpose flour', '3/4 cup stone-ground cornmeal (preferably white)', '2 teaspoons baking powder', '1/2 teaspoon baking soda', '1/2 teaspoon salt', '3/4 cup whole milk', '1/4 cup pure maple syrup (preferably dark amber or Grade B)', '2 large eggs, lightly beaten', 'Accompaniments: pure maple syrup (for drizzling); sour cream']
Preheat oven to 400°F with rack in middle.
Melt butter in a 12-inch nonstick skillet. Brush a 9-inch cake pan (2 inches deep) with 1 tablespoon melted butter and reserve 6 tablespoons in a small bowl. Sprinkle sugar evenly over butter remaining in skillet. Arrange pears, cut sides up, in skillet and sprinkle with 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg. Cook over medium heat 5 minutes, then turn pears over and sprinkle with 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg. Cook until liquid pears give off has evaporated and cut sides are lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes more.
Transfer pears, cut sides down, to cake pan.
Whisk together flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg in a bowl. Whisk in milk, syrup, eggs, and reserved butter just until smooth. Pour over pears and bake until golden and a wooden pick inserted in center of cake comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool in pan on a rack 15 minutes, then run a knife around edge of cake to loosen and invert onto a platter.
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