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Pot O' Beans

['3 tablespoons lard or vegetable oil', '1 medium onion, finely chopped', '1 jalapeño', '1 sprig epazote (optional)', '1 pound dried black beans or pinto beans, rinsed', 'Kosher salt']

Heat lard in a large heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until edges are charred, 8–10 minutes.
Meanwhile, cook jalapeño in a small dry skillet over high heat, turning occasionally, until blackened, 8–10 minutes; cut a slit in jalapeño.
Add jalapeño, epazote sprig, if desired, and beans to pot; add water to cover by 2". Simmer, partially covered, until beans are creamy, 2–3 hours (depending on freshness of beans). Season with salt and cook 15 minutes longer; discard epazote.

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