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Roast Chicken with Rosemary-Garlic Paste

['1/4 cup (loosely packed) fresh rosemary leaves, finely chopped, plus 3 whole fresh rosemary sprigs', '5 juniper berries*', '2 garlic cloves, chopped', '1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns', '3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt or coarse kosher salt', '4 teaspoons olive oil', '1 5- to 6-pound whole chicken (preferably organic)', 'backbone and neck removed (reserved for Light Homemade Chicken Stock', 'if making)']

Combine chopped rosemary and next 4 ingredients in mortar and crush with pestle or blend in mini processor until coarse paste forms. Mix in oil. Rinse chicken; pat dry. Rub 1 teaspoon herb mixture over bone side of chicken. Turn chicken over and open like book; place chicken, skin side up, on work surface. Loosen skin from breast and thigh meat; rub remaining herb mixture over meat under skin. Rub any remaining herb mixture on outside of chicken.
Place rosemary sprigs in 13x9x2-inch ceramic or glass baking dish. Place chicken, skin side up, atop rosemary sprigs in dish. DO AHEAD: Can be made 8 hours ahead. Cover with plastic wrap and chill. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour before roasting.
Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 400°F. Roast chicken uncovered until instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of thigh registers 170°F, about 1 1/2 hours. Transfer chicken to platter and serve.
*Available in the spice section of most supermarkets.
Chardonnay is a good match for this menu. In keeping with the spirit of this earth-friendly dinner, go with a domestic bottle. We like the 2006 Frog's Leap Chardonnay ($24) from Napa, which has bright citrus and stone fruit flavors.

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