Roasted Venison
['3 pound Denver roast of venison, cut into 6- by 3-inch pieces', '2 heads garlic, cloves separated and smashed', '1/2 cup savory or thyme leaves, lightly crushed', '1/2 cup dry red wine', '1/4 teaspoon ground allspice', '1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns, slightly cracked', '1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided', '1 tablespoon kosher salt']
Toss venison with garlic, savory, wine, allspice, peppercorns, and 1/4 cup oil in a sealable bag. Marinate, chilled, turning bag occasionally, at least 8 hours.
Bring venison to room temperature, about 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 450°F with rack in middle.
Discard marinade and pat meat dry. Sprinkle on all sides with 1 tablespoon kosher salt, then 1/2 teaspoon ground pepper. Heat remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then brown meat on all sides in 2 or 3 batches, 3 to 4 minutes per batch. Transfer to a shallow baking pan.
Roast until venison registers 125°F on an instant-read thermometer (inserted 2 inches horizontally into meat) for rare, 5 to 8 minutes (depending on thickness of meat). Let stand on a cutting board 10 minutes before slicing across the grain.
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