Shrimp Salad Rolls
['4 lb large shrimp in shell (21 to 25 per lb)', '1 1/2 cups mayonnaise', '3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice', '3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon, or to taste', '3/4 teaspoon salt', '3/4 teaspoon black pepper', '2 cups chopped celery', '12 hot dog rolls (preferably top-split)']
Cook half of shrimp in a 5- to 6-quart pot of generously salted (2 tablespoons) boiling water, stirring occasionally, until shrimp are just cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer shrimp with a slotted spoon to a platter and return water to a boil. Cook remaining shrimp in same manner (then discard water), transferring to platter. When shrimp are cool enough to handle, peel, then chill, covered, until completely cold, about 1 hour.
Whisk together mayonnaise, lemon juice, tarragon, salt, and pepper in a large bowl and chill until ready to use.
Devein shrimp and cut into 1/2-inch pieces. Season with salt and pepper, then add to dressing along with celery, and toss to combine. Serve salad in rolls.
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