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Smoked-Chili-Rubbed Goat Shoulder

['4 fresh long red chilies, such as Anaheim or Hungarian Wax, chopped', '2 fresh Thai bird chilies, chopped', '3 inches fresh ginger, peeled and chopped', '8 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled', '1 bunch of flat-leaf parsley, leaves only', '2 tablespoons sea salt', '1/4 cup olive oil (the best you can afford)', '1 bone-in goat shoulder (about 5 pounds)']

1. Use a mortar and pestle to pound the chilies, ginger, garlic, and parsley with the salt to a coarse paste, pounding each ingredient thoroughly before adding the next. Add the olive oil, pounding again to form a pretty smooth paste.
2. Rub the goat shoulder with the chili paste and refrigerate, covered, for 24 hours.
1. Preheat a smoker (see Headnote above).
2. Place the goat shoulder in the smoker (reserving any leftover marinade) and let it ride for about 3 hours. Keep an eye on the temperature, stoke your fire, and drink a Scotch. Occasionally baste the goat with the leftover marinade. After 3 hours, periodically jiggle the leg. When it gives you the sense that if you pulled just a bit harder you could tear it from the joint, it's ready, but it'll probably take another 3 to 4 hours. Serve it straight away on a platter and tear into with your hands.

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