Spinach in Yogurt Sauce
['3 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided', '1/2 small onion, chopped', '1 pound spinach, coarse stems discarded and leaves finely chopped', '1 small fresh green chile, such as serrano, Thai, or jalapeño, slit lengthwise with stem end intact', '2 tablespoons water', 'Salt', '1 cup plain yogurt (not Greek-style)', '1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds', '1 teaspoon cumin seeds', '1/8 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes', '10 fresh curry leaves (optional)']
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a 5- to 6-quart heavy pot over medium heat until it shimmers. Cook onion, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 7 minutes. Add spinach, chile, 2 tablespoons water, and 3/4 teaspoon salt and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until spinach is wilted, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in yogurt.
Heat remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons oil in a small heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then cook mustard seeds until they begin to pop and/or turn gray, then add cumin seeds and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until cumin seeds brown, about 30 seconds more. Add curry leaves (if using), covering skillet immediately for a few seconds, then stir spice mixture into spinach mixture. Season with salt. Serve warm.
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