Steamed Egg Custard with Blue Crab and Flowering Chives
['3 large dried Chinese black mushrooms', '2 1/3 cups water', '1 (4-inch) piece kombu (dried kelp)', '2 tablespoons bonito flakes', '6 large eggs', '1/4 cup heavy cream', '1 1/2 teaspoons Shaoxing wine', '1 1/2 teaspoons dry Oloroso Sherry', '1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce', '1 teaspoon kosher salt', '1/4 teaspoon sugar', '1/2 teaspoon Asian sesame oil', '18 flowering Chinese chives, tough bottoms discarded', '1/2 pound jumbo lump crabmeat, picked over', '1/2 teaspoon Asian sesame oil', '1/4 teaspoon sugar', '3/4 teaspoon kosher salt', '1 1/2 teaspoons Shaoxing wine', '1 tablespoon dry Oloroso Sherry', 'Pinch of white pepper', 'Equipment: 8 (4- to 5-ounce) bowls or ramekins']
Simmer mushrooms in water in a small saucepan 5 minutes, then let steep off heat 10 minutes. Add kombu and return just to a simmer. Turn off heat and add bonito flakes, then let steep 10 minutes. Strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl or glass measure, discarding solids. Cool dashi to room temperature.
Beat eggs and 1 1/2 cups cooled dashi in a medium bowl, then whisk in remaining custard ingredients.
Divide among bowls. Cover each tightly with foil and arrange in a steamer rack. Steam, covered, over simmering water until just barely set in center, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove pot from heat and let stand, covered, 2 to 3 minutes. (Custard will continue to set.)
Blanch chives in a medium pot of boiling salted water 30 seconds, then transfer to an ice bath to stop cooking. Pat chives dry. Cut into 3/4-inch pieces and gently combine with crab and remaining ingredients.
Top warm custards with crab mixture.
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