The Silkiest Carbonara
['1/4 pound guanciale (salt-cured pork jowl) or pancetta, cut into 1/3" cubes', '7 large egg yolks', '1 large egg', '1 pound rigatoni', 'Kosher salt', '1/2 cup finely grated Pecorino or Parmesan plus more for garnish', '3/4 teaspoon freshly ground green peppercorns', '3/4 teaspoon freshly ground pink pepper', '1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper', 'Freshly ground black pepper', 'Ingredient info: Guanciale is available at specialty foods stores', 'Italian markets', 'and zingermans.com.']
Put guanciale in a large skillet and place over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until fat renders but guanciale is not browned, about 5 minutes. Pour into a fine-mesh sieve set over a small bowl; reserve drippings. Transfer guanciale to a large bowl and let cool slightly. Add egg yolks and egg to bowl; whisk to blend.
Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup pasta cooking liquid.
To egg mixture, immediately add rigatoni, 2 tablespoons pasta cooking liquid, and 1 teaspoon guanciale drippings; toss to coat. Working in 3 batches, gradually add Pecorino, stirring and tossing to melt between batches. Add green, pink, and white pepper (or 1 1/2-2 teaspoons black pepper); toss until sauce thickens, adding more pasta water by tablespoonfuls if needed. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.
Divide among bowls. Garnish with Pecorino.
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