Tunisian Soup with Chard and Egg Noodles
['1 teaspoon cumin seeds', '1 pound Swiss chard, stems and center ribs chopped and leaves coarsely chopped (reserve separately)', '1 medium red onion, chopped', '2 large garlic cloves, minced', '3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil', '2 tablespoons tomato paste', '2 quarts rich and flavorful chicken stock ; or 5 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth diluted with 3 cups water', '1 to 2 tablespoons harissa or other hot sauce (to taste)', '1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice', '1 (19-ounces) can chickpeas, rinsed', '4 ounce fine egg noodles (about 1 1/2 cups)', 'Equipment: an electric coffee/spice grinder', 'Accompaniment: lemon wedges']
Toast cumin in a dry small heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron) over medium heat, stirring, until deeply fragrant and dark brown (be careful not to burn). Cool, then grind to a powder in grinder.
Cook chard stems, onion, garlic, 1/2 teaspoon each of cumin and salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until beginning to brown, about 12 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add stock, harissa, and lemon juice and simmer, covered, 30 minutes.
Add chard leaves, chickpeas, and noodles with 1/2 teaspoon salt and simmer, covered, until tender, about 7 minutes.
Serve soup sprinkled with remaining cumin.
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