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Whole Roasted Cauliflower with Whipped Goat Cheese

['2 1/2 cups dry white wine', '1/3 cup olive oil', '1/4 cup kosher salt', '3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice', '2 tablespoons unsalted butter', '1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes', '1 tablespoon sugar', '1 bay leaf', '1 head of cauliflower, leaves removed', '4 ounces fresh goat cheese', '3 ounces cream cheese', '3 ounces feta', '1/3 cup heavy cream', '2 tablespoons olive oil plus more for serving', 'Coarse sea salt (for serving)']

Preheat oven to 475°F. Bring wine, oil, kosher salt, juice, butter, red pepper flakes, sugar, bay leaf, and 8 cups water to a boil in a large pot. Add cauliflower, reduce heat, and simmer, turning occasionally, until a knife easily inserts into center, 15-20 minutes.
Using 2 slotted spoons or a mesh spider, transfer cauliflower to a rimmed baking sheet, draining well. Roast, rotating sheet halfway through, until brown all over, 30-40 minutes.
While cauliflower is roasting, blend goat cheese, cream cheese, feta, cream, and 2 tablespoons oil in a food processor until smooth; season with sea salt. Transfer whipped goat cheese to a serving bowl and drizzle with oil.
Transfer cauliflower to a plate. Drizzle with oil; sprinkle with sea salt. Serve with whipped goat cheese.
DO AHEAD: Whipped goat cheese can be made 1 day ahead. Cover; chill.

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