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Wilted Spinach with Nutmeg Butter

['4 pounds flat-leaf spinach (about 8 bunches), coarse stems discarded', '5 tablespoons unsalted butter', '1 1/2 teaspoons grated nutmeg']

Bring 1 cup water to a boil in a wide large pot over high heat, then cook spinach, tossing with tongs, until completely wilted, about 5 minutes. Drain in a colander, pressing with back of a spoon to extract as much liquid as possible.
Heat butter in same pot over medium heat until foam subsides, then stir in nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and spinach. Cook, tossing with tongs, until just heated through.

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