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Yuzu Kosho

['1 cup finely grated lime zest (from about 16 limes)', '2 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest', '2 tablespoons finely grated grapefruit zest (preferably white)', '1 teaspoon kosher salt', '2 tablespoons fresh grapefruit juice (preferably white)', '2 tablespoons bottled yuzu juice', '1 green Thai chile, seeded, minced', '2 teaspoons fresh lime juice', 'Pinch of sugar', 'Ingredient info: Look for bottled yuzu juice at Asian markets and']

Combine zests and salt on a cutting board. Chop, dragging the knife blade at an angle across mixture, until a coarse paste forms. Transfer to a small bowl. Mix in remaining ingredients. Transfer to a small jar, cover, and chill for 2 days. DO AHEAD: Can be made 2 weeks ahead. Keep chilled.

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